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Narai-juku |
The old Nakasendo, also known as the "Samurai Road," is one of Japan's premier historical highways, where you can experience the authentic atmosphere of the Edo period. For foreign travelers, it offers a unique opportunity to immerse yourself in the heart of Japanese culture and history. In this guide, you'll find highlights, travel tips, accommodation options, and transportation advice, all explained in a friendly and accessible way.
Tsumago-juku: A Living Edo-Era Museum
Tsumago-juku is one of the best-preserved post towns along the old Nakasendo and is designated as an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings. The local residents strictly maintain the historical scenery, so walking through Tsumago feels like stepping back in time. You'll find historic tea houses, museums, and traditional inns (hatago), all evoking the spirit of travelers from centuries past. The Ichirizuka Teahouse is a great place to take a break around a traditional hearth, giving you a taste of what it was like to be a traveler in the Edo period.
Magome-juku: Stone Paths and Mountain Views
Magome-juku is famous for its sloping stone-paved streets and beautiful wooden buildings. The town stretches along the mountainside, offering breathtaking views of the valleys and peaks below. There are plenty of cafés and souvenir shops, so you can sample local specialties and traditional sweets as you stroll. The 9-kilometer hiking trail between Tsumago and Magome is especially popular, letting you enjoy both nature and history in one memorable walk.
Narai-juku: The Grand Post Town of Kiso
Narai-juku, often called "Kiso's Grand Post Town," is the largest post town on the old Nakasendo. Its 1-kilometer stretch of traditional wooden buildings is truly impressive and retains a strong Edo-period atmosphere. You'll find plenty of souvenir shops, local craft stores, and museums, making it a great place for a leisurely exploration. Many facilities are accessible for wheelchairs and families with children.
The Nakasendo Hiking Trail (Especially Tsumago to Magome)
The 9-kilometer mountain path connecting Tsumago-juku and Magome-juku is the most popular hiking route on the Samurai Road. The trail features bamboo groves, streams, waterfalls, and teahouses, offering a chance to enjoy the changing seasons. Signposts and English guidance are well-maintained, so even beginners can hike with confidence. Walking the same path as travelers from centuries ago gives you a deeper appreciation for Japanese history and culture.
Ichirizuka Teahouse: A Restful Café Experience
Located in Tsumago-juku, the Ichirizuka Teahouse is a free rest spot renovated from a traditional Edo-period teahouse. The warm, hearth-centered space is perfect for a break during your journey. It's a rare opportunity to experience Japan's historical café culture, and it's very popular with international visitors.
Recommended Accommodations
Nagomi no Yuyado Nakayama (Komagane City, Nagano)
A tranquil hot spring inn offering traditional Japanese rooms and a fragrant wooden bathhouse. Enjoy local cuisine and a soothing onsen experience after a day of exploring.
Nakatsugawa Onsen Hotel Hanasarasa
Conveniently located for visiting Magome-juku and Nakatsugawa, this hot spring hotel features Japanese-style rooms, karaoke, a restaurant, and relaxing baths—great for families or anyone wanting to unwind.
Hatago Tawara-ya (Magome-juku)
A traditional guesthouse in Magome-juku that recreates the atmosphere of an Edo-period inn. Ideal for small groups seeking a quiet, homey stay.
Magome Chaya
A historic guesthouse in the heart of Magome-juku, featuring minimalist Japanese-style rooms in an 18th-century wooden building. With a shared kitchen and lounge, it's perfect for backpackers and longer stays.
Matsushiroya Ryokan (Tsumago-juku area)
Founded in 1804, this long-established ryokan offers quiet rooms with river views and no TVs, preserving the Edo-period ambiance. Perfect for history lovers and those seeking tranquility.
Hotel Kisoji (Agematsu, Nagano)
A hot spring hotel in the Agematsu area with a restaurant, large baths, and stunning mountain views. Blends traditional charm with modern comfort.
Hotel Fukinomori (Nagiso Town)
A luxury hot spring hotel surrounded by forest, featuring all-Japanese rooms with balconies, delicious meals, and a relaxing spa. Ideal for those who want a peaceful retreat in nature.
Daikichi (Near Tsumago-juku)
A family-run inn known for its local cuisine and warm hospitality. Parking is available, making it convenient for travelers with rental cars.
Takumi no Jikka (Magome-juku area)
A private rental house near Magome-juku, perfect for families or groups wanting a private stay.
Guesthouse Tenman-ya (Nakatsugawa City)
A budget-friendly guesthouse and café in central Nakatsugawa. Enjoy an at-home atmosphere and the chance to mingle with locals in the café area.
Hotel Route-Inn Nakatsugawa Inter
A business hotel near the Nakatsugawa interchange, ideal for travelers arriving by car. Simple but comfortable, with all the essentials for longer stays or as a sightseeing base.
Other Historic Post Towns on the Kisoji (Suhara-juku, Motoyama-juku, Wada-shuku, etc.)
Besides Narai-juku, the old Nakasendo is dotted with many other historic post towns. Each retains the atmosphere of the Edo period and is perfect for quiet strolls and historical exploration. These towns are less crowded, so you can enjoy a more peaceful experience.
Unique Hot Springs and Forest Retreats
Atera-so Forest Spa Japanese Onsen
A hot spring inn nestled in the forests of Kisoji, where you can relax with beautiful mountain and woodland views. Enjoy local cuisine and a soothing soak after your travels.
Takimi House
A quiet hot spring inn in the woods, featuring simple Japanese-style rooms and relaxing baths. Ideal for those seeking peace and the healing power of nature.
Travel Tips for the Nakasendo (Samurai Road)
1. Best Time to Visit
Spring and autumn are the most popular seasons, with cherry blossoms or fall foliage adding to the beauty. Summer is lush and green, while winter offers a quiet, snowy landscape—just be prepared for cold weather.
2. What to Wear
Wear comfortable walking shoes, as many streets are cobblestone or sloped. Bring a light jacket or rain gear, especially in spring and autumn.
3. Language
While English signage is available in most major towns and on the hiking trail, learning a few basic Japanese phrases (like "hello" and "thank you") will enhance your experience and delight the locals.
4. Luggage Delivery
If you’re hiking between post towns, consider using luggage delivery services available in the area. This allows you to walk freely without carrying heavy bags.
5. Local Etiquette
Be respectful of local customs. For example, don't eat while walking, and always greet people with a smile or a bow.
How to Get There and Around
By Train
From Tokyo: Take the JR Chuo Main Line from Shinjuku to Nakatsugawa (for Magome-juku) or Nagiso (for Tsumago-juku). The trip takes about 2.5–3 hours.
From Nagoya: Take the JR Chuo Main Line to Nakatsugawa or Nagiso. About 1–1.5 hours.
By Bus
Local buses connect Nakatsugawa Station to Magome-juku (about 30 minutes) and Nagiso Station to Tsumago-juku (about 10 minutes).
By Car
Renting a car gives you flexibility, especially if you want to visit multiple post towns or explore the surrounding countryside.
On Foot
The Tsumago-Magome trail is a highlight—about 2–3 hours of easy to moderate hiking, with English signs and rest stops along the way.
Final Thoughts
The Nakasendo "Samurai Road" is a journey through time, offering a rare glimpse into Japan’s feudal past. Whether you’re a history buff, a nature lover, or simply seeking a peaceful escape, the preserved post towns and scenic trails of the Kiso Valley will leave you with unforgettable memories. Take your time, savor the local hospitality, and let the spirit of the samurai guide your adventure!
